Cologne Carnival, or “Fastelovend” as it’s affectionately known in the local dialect, is akin to stepping into a vibrant tapestry of history, culture, and unbridled festivity. This annual event, often referred to as the “fifth season,” transforms the city into a pulsating hub of joy and camaraderie, leaving an indelible mark on all who partake in its celebrations.
A Brief Overview of Cologne Carnival
The Cologne Carnival is one of Germany’s most renowned festivals, with roots tracing back to medieval times. While the festivities officially commence on November 11th at 11:11 a.m., the pinnacle of the celebration unfolds during the six days leading up to Ash Wednesday. This period, known as the “crazy days,” sees the city come alive with parades, music, dancing, and an overwhelming sense of community.
Weiberfastnacht: The Women’s Carnival
The revelry kicks off on Weiberfastnacht, or Women’s Carnival, which falls on the Thursday before Ash Wednesday. On this day, women symbolically seize power, a tradition dating back to 1824 when washerwomen in Beuel, a district of Bonn, laid claim to a day of their own. One of the most cherished customs of this day involves women playfully cutting off men’s ties, symbolizing the cutting off of men’s status symbols, and offering a “Bützje” (a peck on the cheek) in return.
The streets of Cologne brim with costumed revelers from the early morning hours, setting the tone for the days to come.
The Role of the ‘Jecken’
Central to the Carnival are the “Jecken,” a term used to describe the jesters or fools who participate in the festivities. In Cologne, everyone becomes a Jeck during this season, embracing the spirit of merriment and folly. The city’s motto, “Kölle Alaaf,” resonates throughout, a traditional cheer that translates to “Cologne above all.”
The Triumvirate: Prince, Peasant, and Virgin
A unique feature of the Cologne Carnival is the “Dreigestirn” or triumvirate, comprising three symbolic figures: the Prince (Prinz), the Peasant (Bauer), and the Virgin (Jungfrau). These roles are traditionally played by men, with the Virgin always portrayed by a man in drag. The trio represents Cologne’s history and virtues, with the Prince embodying the jovial spirit of the Carnival, the Peasant symbolizing the city’s strength and resilience, and the Virgin standing for purity and the nurturing nature of Cologne.
Rosenmontag: The Rose Monday Parade
The highlight of the Cologne Carnival is undoubtedly Rosenmontag, or Rose Monday. On this day, a grand parade winds its way through the city, attracting over a million spectators annually. The procession features elaborate floats, marching bands, and dance troupes. Participants on the floats toss “Kamelle” (sweets) and “Strüßjer” (small bouquets) into the crowds, creating a festive scramble as attendees eagerly collect the treats. It’s estimated that around 300 tons of sweets and 300,000 bouquets are distributed during the parade.
The floats often carry satirical themes, poking fun at political figures and current events, showcasing the Cologneers’ penchant for humor and critique.
Geisterzug: The Ghost Parade
An alternative and equally captivating event is the Geisterzug, or Ghost Parade, which takes place on the Saturday evening before Carnival week. This procession invites participants to dress as ghosts, spirits, or other eerie entities, and is characterized by its spontaneous and inclusive nature. Unlike other parades, anyone can join without prior registration, embodying the free-spirited essence of the Carnival.
The Nubbel: Scapegoat of the Carnival
As the Carnival draws to a close on Violet Tuesday (Veilchendienstag), a peculiar ritual unfolds—the burning of the “Nubbel.” The Nubbel is a straw effigy that hangs outside pubs and bars throughout the Carnival season. It serves as a scapegoat for the misdeeds and excesses committed during the festivities. In a symbolic act of cleansing and absolution, the Nubbel is ceremoniously burned, allowing participants to bid farewell to their sins and start anew as Lent begins.
Music and Dance: The Heartbeat of Carnival
Music is the lifeblood of the Cologne Carnival. Traditional songs, many sung in the local Kölsch dialect, fill the air, and it’s common to see people linking arms and swaying together in a dance known as “Schunkeln.” Local bands play a significant role, with their tunes becoming anthems of the season. In the months leading up to Carnival, these bands often host sing-along sessions in pubs to teach the new songs to the public, ensuring that everyone can join in the chorus when the time comes.
Costumes: A City Transformed
One cannot speak of the Cologne Carnival without mentioning the elaborate costumes. The streets become a sea of creativity, with revelers dressed as everything from historical figures to mythical creatures. A particularly popular choice is the animal onesie, offering both comfort and whimsy. The emphasis is on participation rather than perfection, and even the simplest of costumes is met with appreciation.
Culinary Delights: Kölsch and Krapfen
No Carnival experience is complete without indulging in the local cuisine. Kölsch, the light and crisp beer native to Cologne, flows freely during the festivities.
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